Abstrakt:

A method of calculating the general handle factor (GHF) of a woven fabric was developed on the basis of mechanical parameters determined at small stresses with the use of an Instron tension-tester. The influence was estimated of such factors as the kind of finishing, raw material, weft density, and weave of the fabric on the value of the general handle factor (GHF) as calculated according to the proposed procedure. From the analysis of tests, it results that raw woven fabrics are characterised by the lowest value of GHF factor, whereas woven fabrics with elastomeric finishing have the highest GHF factor value; this is in accordance with the assumption accepted in the planning phase of the experiments. When considering the type of weave, fabrics with twill and combined weave are characterised by the best handle, whereas those with a plain weave by the worst. The highest values of the GHF factor were obtained for fabrics with the lowest weft density.