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Lithuanian Folk Skirts. Part I: Analysis of Fabric Pattern

Research and development

Authors:

  • Kumpikaitė Eglė
    Department of Textile Technology, Faculty of Design and Technologies, Kaunas University of Technology, Kaunas, Lithuania
  • Néniené Inga (j/w)

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Abstract:

Some of the most colourful parts of Lithuanian folk costume are skirts. In the past in Lithuanian tradition fabrics for skirts were woven from home-made yarns on a hand weaving loom. In these fabrics the esthetic taste, ethnocultural originality and character of Lithuanian women manifested themselves at a local and regional level. From a chronological point of view, folk fabrics show the artistic and technological evolution of the weaving tradition. In this two-part article the patterns, weaves, variety and prevalence of skirts, as well as the peculiarities of their colour combinations and weaves are investigated. The chronological and territorial distribution of pattern is also studied. The research sources are 285 exhibits from the textile collection of the Folk Art department of the National M. K. Čiurlionis Art Museum. In the analysis, the weave and combination of colours as well as other data were identified. In the first part the classification of skirt fabrics according to the fabric pattern is presented, and the quantitative distribution of pattern is indicated. Also, the peculiarities of interrelation of fabric pattern as well as the weave and characteristic combinations of colour are established. Furthermore, distribution according to the weaving period and ethnographical regions of Lithuania is analysed, paying attention to the tendencies of chronological and territorial distribution of skirt patterns.

Tags: folk skirt, fabric pattern, fabric weave, colour.

Published in issue no 2 (67) / 2008, pages 79–83.

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