Abstract:

The goal of the study is to expand the new 3D garment creation method which has been developed by our team to cover other morphological targets. This creation process, applied until now to typical human body, shapes can be also used in the case of the atypical posture of the human being. The purpose of this study was to obtain 2D patterns of disabled people, especially for people afflicted with severe scoliosis. In our paper we introduced the pathology of this disease as well as the strong influence of this disability on the garment creation process. We present the method which has been used to capture the 3D shape of the body. Two methods of 3D pattern making are proposed. The first method, using virtual try-on, is an empirical method which uses the knowledge and know-how of pattern makers. The second method is a more rigorous one that shows the feasibility of creating a tailored garment directly on a 3D body shape. This method takes into account the 3D evolution of the body as well as the comfort and well-being of the customer, managed by the values of 3D ease allowance. Finally the result shows that the two methods can be used in different garment industries.