Abstract:

In this article the seam slippage characteristics of unbalanced weave fabrics are analysed. The slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics is a very important factor, and strong claims have been made about this property. Preliminary investigations showed that balanced and unbalanced woven fabrics must be estimated differently. Well-known factors such as the fabric structure factor P and average float F were investigated, and then a new fabric structure factor, NPR, was proposed, which best characterises the weave from a thread slippage point of view. According to the coefficient of determination, it was found that the power equation of the new weave factor for balanced fabrics shows good correlation between experimental and theoretical values. It was proved that seam slippage influences not only the weave factor in the slip direction but also in the normal direction. The weave factor in the slip direction influences seam slippage by 81%, the weave factor in opposite direction – 19%. However, this new model is unsuitable for describing warp and weft ribs from a thread slippage point of view because they comprise a separate group of weaves, with particular theories applying to them.